About 15 years ago my eyes glared at a picture of a small number of people who sail on a wooden boat, bathing in golden warm of afternoon light. The shore and the green trees also bath in the same beautiful golden tone. It must be a lovely day I thought. When the picture itself that attracted me initially to take the postcard out of its stand, the description of the picture that actually drew me to inspect it further and made me absorbed. Hold it and then kept it for myself. Well, I bought it.

I don’t remember exactly what was printed as the description, but surely it mentioned the name of the place: “Tukangbesi Islands”. I whispered softly, “Hmm this is it, the Tukangbesi Islands”.

Back in mid 90s, the name of Tukangbesi just entered the realm of Indonesian remote and exotic places. It was a kind of ‘new entry’, a new ‘addition’ that barely heard. Unlike the Raja Ampat, its rival in the underwater extravaganza, at that time I had never heard the extravagant marine biodiversity of Tukangbesi Islands. (A funny thing about these two far-flung islands in the eastern Indonesian archipelago was that I knew the Raja Ampat’s legendary marine paradise but I wasn’t able to locate its position. On the contrary, I knew the location of the Tukangbesi Islands but had no idea about its marine life; even the picture in the postcard didn’t give me any clue).

I said 15 years ago because sadly I lost my collection of Indonesian postcards a year afterward. A collection that had never been able to be assembled again. Nevertheless, this postcard (not the picture which I can possibly be wrong on the details and the photographer: Jill Gocher; please correct me if I’m wrong) always live in my memory. It was the first published picture of the Tukangbesi Islands that I knew.

On December 2007, I had a chance to visit these “microscopic” islands. I could not spend much time there (only two days) as we flew from Makassar using a chartered plane and therefore became tied by its schedule. Yet I managed to make some interesting shots that serve as my initial portfolio of the area. Certainly, I will back again someday or in the near future with more reasonable time devoted. The place deserves it.

It’s worthy to note that this article is not intended as a complete underwater guide to Wakatobi. Even the photos displayed in the gallery above and below (they are both the same) are mostly not about underwater. I just want to share a story of this magnificent place and hope it will work as your initial or additional source of information before exploring the area.

Courtesy and adapted from www.wakatobi.org Tukangbesi Islands or Wakatobi, a chain of small islands in the southeastern Sulawesi.

What’s In The Name

So now, what this Tukangbesi or Iron Maker Islands has to do with Wakatobi?

It is a different name for a same place. The term Wakatobi derives from Wangiwangi, Kaledupa, Tomia and Binongko. The four largest islands in the archipelago. Besides referring to the largest islands, from the business standpoint, Wakatobi also serves as a ‘commercial’ name. I think the first resort in the area, the Wakatobi Resort popularizes the name. The original and official name for this string of island off the southeastern coast of Sulawesi remains as it has been: Tukangbesi Islands. However, what most people know or heard now is the Wakatobi; and that’s what we will use in this article. Just a warn: if you open the map, you may have to switch to its official name in order to find it.

So enough with this name games. Let’s talk about what this exotic place has to offer.

Prestigious Dive Site

It started eons ago when our planet covered (almost) entirely by ice and glacier. Scientists estimate that an area around the Indonesian archipelago, plus a bit area to the north (the southern Philippines) and a bit more  to the east of Papua New Guinea (Samoa Islands to be exact) never covered entirely and completely by the massive ice sheet. This Indo-Pacific region or zone now called The World Coral Triangle. Why? Because according to WWF, 85% of the world corals species can be found within the triangle zone. Fantastic! (Remember corals are only part of the larger ecosystem).

The ‘problem’ is, the closer to the center of the triangle, the lesser is the impact of the ice ages (there were two ice ages happened during our planet’s history). As the result, it is loaded with life, marine life.

Wakatobi, the chain of islands in the rim of the Banda Sea is just about in the epicenter of this triangle. Its marine life is undoubtedly one of the most extravagant in the world. Myriad of fish and corals can be found in the archipelago. Instantly, just a couple of meters from the shore. The water is exceptionally clear; thanks to the lack of soil and river erosion, (the islands are made up of fossilized reefs). Even the legendary Jacques Costeau described it as the finest diving site in the world.

As I am not a scientist, to put it into perspective, I will quote from several reliable sources what they say about this heaven.

WWF: “At the Western edge of the Indian Ocean, or the Eastern edge of the Pacific, you will only find about 25% of the number of species that are present at Wakatobi”. And that’s surely a wow! Be aware, it’s just the beginning. Take a deep breath.

WWF: “Wakatobi MNP may have one of the highest fish diversities of any location on the planet”.

“Coral reefs are abundant. Three hundred and ninety six species of hermatypic scleractinian corals belonging to 68 genera and 15 families have been recorded within the WMNP whilst 590 species of fish have so far been officially recorded” (Dr Richard Unsworth M.Sc B.Sc.,  Tropical Marine Ecologist from Australia).  Furthermore, he says, “Wakatobi's underwater environment is an extraordinary and diverse seascape of vibrant tropical coral reefs, dramatic slopes and walls, lush sea mounts, caverns and pristine reef tops. It is an excellent opportunity for drift diving, critter encounters and fascinating reef exploration”. Again, wow!

“The park encompasses stunning coral reefs, white sand beaches and an amazing wealth of whales and dolphins. Positioned at the heart of the Indo Pacific area where marine biodiversity is at its greatest, diving is truly fantastic” (Dr Richard Unsworth M.Sc B.Sc., Tropical Marine Ecologist from Australia).

Wakatobi also has the longest atoll in the world: Karang Kaledupa (you can find the picture here)

And other testimonials such as this cited from Wakatobi Resort: “Well-traveled divers - many who have visited numerous famous dive destinations all over the world - frequently tell us they have never seen such a vast, pristine and enjoyable reef area. There are literally hundreds of world class dive sites -- many still unexplored”.

Unquestionably, Wakatobi is the diver’s dream and in top of the diver’s wish list.

While its underwater biodiversity is remarkable, its above water environment is no less fascinating. For instance, the archipelago boasts as the main host of the sea nomad or the sea-gypsies Bajau people. In the past, this distinguished tribe wandered around the Malay Archipelago. Nowadays, its more and more difficult to find them. And Bajau is not the only people who live in the archipelago. In fact, every major island develops different culture, customs and art that are fairly distinctive. You can see it here .

In 1996 the Wakatobi area was designated as national park, the Wakatobi Marine National Park. At 1.39 million hectares it is the second largest marine protected area in Indonesia. However, constant threat from the growing population and over fishing is obvious.

Fortunately, the government and community leaders realize it. Together with NGOs and the resort that have “paved the way”, they unite in a join effort to educate the local people. Preserving their valuable asset is a must. Ecotourism also in progress but I think it is just in the early stage.

As evident in other parts of the world, to be successful there should be a mutual relationship between this asset and the prosperity of the people. Let’s hope this paradise to be survive, endure, forever.

Note: I should express my appreciation to Wakatobi Resort who has courageously built a small airstrip, the Maranggo in the island of Tomia and for their hospitality during my brief visit to the Tolondano Island, the base of their operation. Though the motive for the 1,500 m long airstrip is mainly of business matters, we can deny the fact that it also brings a better connection to the outside world.