Text & Photos by Fadil Aziz

As many people would know that the eastern tip of Java Island is the center of many volcanoes. An old caldera called Kaldera Ijen lies widely amongst volcanoes, active and dormant. The widest side of the caldera stretches out until 20 kilometers long, making it the biggest caldera in the country putting the famous Tengger caldera in Bromo in the lower rank.

Yet, the real attraction of  Ijen Caldera lies 2,300 meters above the sea. There is a beautiful crater lake with turquoise color hidden in this place. There are not many lake or crater with such color. Surrounded with many mountain peaks, the lake offers not only its breathtaking view, but also the feeling of tranquility for visitors, especially those come from big cities where business has become their everyday life.

The dawn had just broken, yet several visitors had started their journey toward the Ijen Crater located on the border between Bondowoso and Banyuwangi regencies. The walked on a path with three meters wide through the darkness. There was nothing to hear but the sound of gasping breath. Unlike professional hiker, they were just a group of people from the city with determination to witness the breathtaking view of the sun rose from the edge of Ijen Crater.

Apparently, the were not the only group there. On the same path, they found other groups of people carrying torch. They were also carrying two empty baskets made form bamboo on their shoulders. They walked slowly, with a constant hurriedly.

One and half hour later reached an open space. The wind blew strong here as the visitors decided to take rest in several wooden chairs available.

“SEVENTY  FIVE,  ONE  HUNDRED,  ONE HUNDRED  AND  FIFTY”

 Those were the utterances coming from the the people with the torch every time they their basket on a steel hook. Would the numbers mean anything? After we paid closely, the hook turned out to be a weighing scale and  the numbers mentioned were the weight of the baskets. Yup, seventy five kilos, one hundred kilos, until one hundred and fifty kilos. Yet, those weights were nothing compared to the weight of two bottles of mineral water and a pack of cracker a visitor would usually carry.

Who were they? They were traditional sulphur miners, probably the only ones in the worlds. Naturally, an active volcano would produce sulphur in the form of gas. Through condensation, the gas changed into liquid and later hardened like rocks. These rocks which were commonly known as sulphur which would later gathered by the miners.

They could carry 50—150 kg of sulphur all the way from mining to the weighing post located at the bottom of the mountain at Pal Tuding. What an extraordinary scene, yet gloomy for us.

About ten minutes later, the path ended at an open space with the sight of a beautiful valley on our right. Up here, we could see Rante and Raung Mountaind in the distance,. It was less than twenty minutes for us to reach the Ijen Crater from here as we could already smell sulphur indistinct. Although, the mountain was still active, still the picture of enjoying the breathtaking crater that only few could enjoy had diminished their worries.

Ijen Crater was the final  destination for the visitors, but actually it was a start for the miners. Yes, down below in the deep crater the mining was located.

The journey to the mining place was rocky and very steep. To reach it, we had to take a small path along the rocky wall on our right and 200-meter slope on our left. The path itself was very sloppy. What a startling outlook to see the miners  had to carry up to hundreds kilograms of sulphur on their shoulders along the hard path. Yet, the picture was not complete unless we could see directly the mining activities on ground zero located on the side of a lake.

Right on the most active crater, we could see fumaroles, smoke coming  out from he fracture of volcano containing sulphur. We could also hear the turbulence and fizzs sound of fumaroles continuously, a sign that it was not a safe place for human.

Nevertheless, this was where the production process took place. Several people paid attention to the condensation process, while the miners tried to pick sulphur in the thickness of he smoke.

The mining activities depend entirely on the mercy of the nature : wind. The existence of wind in this place was truly a meaningful bless to the miners since it would help clear up the thick smoke so that miners could breath fresh air.

What if there was no air at all? There would be no mercy for the miners. All of sudden, they would feel a heavy burden in their chest as they hardly breath, sore eyes, dry and sour mouth. When it happened, all they could do was just try to sit and relax while trying to breath normally and cleaning up those sore eyes. People were hardly spoke to each other in this place. They just tried to finish  their job fast, putting the sulphuric stones to the baskets and leave the place. Yet, hurdle didn’t stop there. Other obstacles awaited as they tried to carry the heavy baskets through the step and slippery path on the way up to the peak.

The job was too heavy that a miner could only carry 100-200 kilograms in average per day. When they reached Pal Tuding, all the stones were weighed and noted down. Later, they would be taken to Banyuwangi to be further processed into medicines, cosmetics and sugar production process.

So, how much the stones was rewarded for every kilogram? Not more than Rp. 400 per kilogram. Yes, all the hard work was carried out only to receive 25,000 to 60,000 rupiah daily. The money would have to support for two days since they had to take one day rest after one hard-working day at the crater.

That as just of around 200 people depending their lives behind the magnificent beauties of mountains....

A NOTE

IF YOU WANT TO VISIT IJEN

The journey to Ijen as far as  three kilometers can be achieved by all people, adults and children with healthy bodies. The journey usually starts a small path of Pal Tuding where many cottages managed by the Ministry of Forestry are available. The journey usually takes 1,5 to 2 hours walk to Ijen  Crater.

Watching directly the mining activities are not allowed for public, especially those with physical problems and vertigo. The rule especially apply to those who would feel sick and dizzy easily if they inhale the sulphuric smoke.

The journey to he crater must apply extreme caution. On your way up, never talk to the miners carrying baskets if you don’t have to. They would later stop and talk with you which would slow their rhythms and forcing them to use extra energy.