MADURA – Strangers in A Barren

and Empty Land

"From Our Latest Trip"

Text & Photos by Fadil Aziz, images are copyright protected.

Madura is an island north of Java, Indonesia. It is the biggest island in what is called “Java” beside the Island of Java itself (“Java” consists of hundreds island, a fact that most people generally don’t well aware of). If you take a glimpse at the Java’s map, you won’t miss this 160 km long and 35 km wide island, stretched in the eastern part. Madura is famous for its sate (satay, roasted meat of chicken or lamb barbequed) and the colorful bull race (kerapan sapi). Obiously our visit was not for the tasty satay which is easier to find outside its homeland, but rather for the latter (interestingly, we hardly found the famous Sate Madura in the Madura itself!).

In this photography trip to the East Java, I was accompanied by Omat, one of my trusted assistant that has been traveling with me for the last one year. Four hours ferry trip from Asembagus in Situbondo, East Java, took us to Semenep, small regency in the eastern most of the island. This was considered the best route to reach Sumenep from Bondowoso instead of heading west again to Surabaya, crossing the Kamal channel and then take a bus ride to Sumenep. We could easily spend 12 hours or more on such a round trip.

After 6 hours (2 hours more than the normal time) through the choppy Madura Strait that made the small ferry quite shaky, we arrived in Kalianget on 7 pm. A green Colt L-300 waited outside the ferry terminal and brought us to Sumenep, the main town. From afterward, we have to get acustom with the distinctive Madurese dialect. The unique intonation way of speaking that is pleasing to hear (fortunately they speak Bahasa Indonesia most of the time). We enjoyed it!

Sumenep is a sleepy town. But coming from the chaotic Jakarta, we appreciate the lazy atmosphere. It is a good thing. We spent a good deal of time in this administrative town. Although it has limited accomodations, almost non existent car and motor bike rental, food was no problem. So it served as our base in exploring this eastern part of the island.

In our first attempt to photograph the bull race, we met with Zarwawi Imron. His work, “Bulan Tertusuk Ilalang” (And the Moon Dances) was turned into a movie by one of the most respected Indonesian film director, Garin Nugroho. This film also has won several prizes in Berlin, Nantes and Singapore film festivals. Zarwawi is a famous writer and poet and he is a Madurese. We met him in his traditional Madurese house (distinguished by its spacious veranda, a set of wooden chairs and a round table, white paint and steep roof). Obviously this meeting was unplanned and we came across his house in an attempt to find the bull race scheduled that day in the area of Batang-batang. The kerapan sapi bull race mysteriously was never took place that day and we ended up in a nice talk with the host, in the deep peaceful interior of Madura.

If one thing is not uncommon in Indonesia, it is this mysterious way of happenings or not happenings. Things could suddenly happen in front of you without any sign before, or things that have been well scheduled to take place just never happen without any one being able to explain. Please think about this carefuly when you are going to make a visit to this country. Always have extra time and Plan B.

In our case, we have both; unlike casual trip, photography trip is never a quick and short one. We managed to find one nice kerapan sapi in Ambunten several days after our first attempt. Ambunten is a village in the northern coast, about two hours and a half from Sumenep by motor bike (had I didn’t advice Omat to drive slowly, the trip would be faster).

It was a scorching day. We shot all day long under the harsh sun of equator. My motor drive was punnished every time the pair of the bull took the race. And most of the time we caught in a small riot near the finish line. Especially when the bulls coming toward us in full speed. We never knew where they are heading for. So everyone ran everywhere!

I don’t know why they choose an abrupt ending as if the bulls have a reverse engine like airplane to help them to stop (a concrete wall stood up just 10m from the finish line). The bulls should also know that they have to turn the left or right side (depending on its position) at the end of the track. They must be getting mad about this and so did us…

10 giga bytes of images were transferred to the image tank that day. But honestly, to get exceptional result, we should photograph more than one occasion.

Apart from the spectacle, I have to say that I have a terrible feeling on the animal. They were obviously stress and the Madurese used every torture imaginable to make their bull run as fast as possible, including give them bottles of tonic drink! I’d be thoroughly enjoy this spectacle had they show a mutual respect for their animals.

We returned to Sumenep exhausted, as usual. Even then, we looked for a good spot for a dramatic sunset along the way and rewarded with a very beautiful one. Very satisfying.

Madura is a barren island. Most of the land is arid, empty and abandoned. In our photography journey across this island, we came across adandoned countrysides. Very sad, that the Madurese have to migrate throughout Indonesia for better living.

Photography wise, this island does not have a lot to offer, but few that it has is very attractive. Some photogenic historical sites are also scattered throughout the island. The people were nice, honest though a bit reserved. And we, we were just peculiar strangers carrying tons of equipment in a barren land.